The fashion icon Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Than We Were Decades Ago.

An unexpected discovery during a tube journey in 1988 transformed the trajectory of a teenage Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the capital's vibrant 1990s artistic milieu, progressing from model to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the style editor of i-D magazine.

"That time was the height of the Young British Artists – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he states. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I felt we’d be close. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday rolled into Saturday into Sunday. I yearn for that spontaneity."

Although Enninful appears sentimental, he is far from alone. Recently, a longing look back of the 1990s has grown intense. However in the intervening decades, Enninful feels a noticeable regression. "In my view, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "It’s not even this country – it’s a global phenomenon."

Shifting Attitudes

This change is difficult to overlook: the rise of far-right politics, the reaction against progressive values, and the reassertion of traditional beauty standards. Where once there was the optimism of the Blair era, now a more divisive political figure appears as a potential leader. Even, the British flag, once an emblem of Cool Britannia, has become contentious again.

For Enninful, the response has long been to celebrate culture in all its diversity. This was the core philosophy behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a portrait of modern Britain, featuring a diverse array of influential figures from literature.

"Those in a position of influence should employ it," he asserts, discussing those editorial decisions. "There is much discussion about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain were not a lenient country, if it hadn't given my family a refuge and an education. That’s the Britain I always loved. I trust this moment will end."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He finds hope in the next generation: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They analyse unconscious bias – I didn't even know what that was."

Those early experiences would shape a trailblazing career marked by boldness and diversity. Enninful made history as the first man, first black man, first openly gay person, and first disabled gay man of colour to take the helm at British Vogue. His leadership featured landmark covers showcasing models of colour, curvy models, older individuals, and people from all walks of life. Critically, sales rose.

"To overlook large portions of the population, it’s more than that you’re excluding people – it’s commercially unwise," he states.

A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'

He has since founded his agency EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his first major project since departing his previous role. He says he wants to continue being a "disruptor".

"I’ve always questioned the conventional wisdom. I was brought up in a place where the majority was Black – the physicians, the attorneys, the president. Then we arrived in England, penniless, and I found myself on the margins. I was incredibly timid. My teachers declared I’d never amount to anything. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a sense of being both an insider and outsider."

Contrary to the popular image of industry figures as loud and temperamental, Enninful is measured in tone and radiates serenity. His journey has involved hardship, including publicly shared periods of mental health and addiction.

He has also faced serious health challenges, having had multiple operations on his eyes, now leaving him with impaired eyesight. "I experienced such a dark place for two years, away from work, terrified I was going to go blind. It’s similar to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I vowed, if this ever is over, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to limit myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."

Curating a Cultural Era

This determination to be defined narrowly has propelled him outside the realm that established him. He is now putting together a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a group of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to evoke the decade's creative cross-pollination – and give platform to those who lacked a spotlight at the time.

"The establishment often failed to promote the truly innovative creators because they lacked the right pedigree," he observes.

This venture itself functions with a unique business model, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "We ask, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an event, a podcast? The magazine is a piece within a greater ecosystem."

Looking Forward Without Fear

Now, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most respected cultural influencers. His journey, he feels, is a proof to the power of following your instincts.

What would the Edward of the 90s react to the man he has become? He laughs heartily. "It would be a surprise, but he’d be proud. In those days I was a rebel. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He pauses. "Nothing is assumed. We lost our home, we left our homeland. I almost lost my vision. So fear is not a factor. People have counted me out my entire life. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve set my intention to do something."